Vented Ball Valves– vented ball design with a vent hole drilled into the upstream side of the valve body. This hole allows the body cavity to release pressure to the upstream side of the valve that would otherwise be trapped. A vented ball valve makes the valve one directional, where typically they are bi-directional.

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They is normally closed! When there is no power to the valve, it is in the closed position.

The valve has a 100% duty cycle and is rated for continuous duty. It can be in the open position, with power applied, all the time without problems.

No! Particulate matter can prevent the piston from completely closing the valve - causing leakage or damage.

There is none and none is needed. The outside temperature of the coil can reach 180°F (82°C) in normal operation and will cause no damage to the valve.

Fluid inside the valve can reach temperatures above ambient because of the operating temperature of the coil. The hot coil heats the process media which can raise its temperature considerably. Remember, the fluids that may not affect the valve seals at ambient temperature can cause problems at higher temperatures.

The valve opens and closes almost instantaneously.

the flow velocity increases so does the potential for generating damaging shock pressures as the valve opens and closes. At flow velocities above 5 feet per second, this shock pressure can be great enough to damage the valve, especially the diaphragm seals.

If the inlet pressure is greater than 25 PSI (10.7 kPa), and the pressure differential (the difference between the inlet and outlet pressures) must be GREATER than 25 PSI of the valve to open and close smoothly. You can test it by operating the valve without pressure or flow going through it to verify that that is the cause.

Same answer as the last question (8).

The valve itself can withstand 150 PSI without damage, but the coil and spring that open and close the valve won't work above 120 PSI.

The most likely cause is that the valve stem or actuator coupling is broken.

The electric actuator limit switches or the pneumatic actuator position stops are not correctly adjusted.

Most likly because there is no air pressure to the solenoid or dirt has jammed it. Also, debris might be trapped inside the valve. Or, the air pressure is not sufficient to operate the actuator. Remember: measure air pressure at the actuator, not at the compressor.

Possibly. First- be sure that the actuator torque output is sufficient to turn the valve reliably. Second- you will have to fabricate a custom mounting bracket and coupling to connect the actuator to the valve.

The valve will stop somewhere between full open and close. When power is reapplied to the original circuit, the actuator will complete the cycle.

To make the change just remove the actuator from the valve and turn it, or the valve stem, 90 degrees and remount the actuator.

Remove the actuator from the valve and check the valve stem. Most ball valves have stem flats at right angles to the flow when the valve is in the off position. On butterfly valves check the stem flow arrow marking.

No, a remote location is fine. Just make sure that the air pressure at the actuator is sufficient to power it. The air pressure at the actuator may be less than the pressure at the remote solenoid, be sure to check it.

Check the electric wiring schematic that came with the actuator for the correct hookup. Sometimes a copy is inside the actuator cover. If it is missing, don't guess about the connections. Call the manufacturer for a schematic.

The actuator is wired incorrectly (check the schematic accompanying the actuator), or the external control switch is not the correct type for the actuator.

Not unless you bought it with an optional speed control.

Actuators and solenoid valves require different types of electrical control switches. SPDT for actuators, SPST for solenoids. Check the actuator wiring schematic for the correct wiring and switch type.